Christmas Food in Panama

December arrives and, as it does every year, Panama dresses up to celebrate the Christmas season. The northern breeze carries away the rains, and the intense summer sun fuels our festive spirit, translating into one of my favorite traditions within our Panamanian cultural repertoire: Christmas food.

In Panama, there is a series of dishes traditionally served during Christmas and New Year’s. While many of them can be found in limited form throughout the year, it is in December when they truly take center stage on the Panamanian table.

TAMALES

December is when “the aunt,” “the grandmother,” “the neighbor,” or “the nanny” shine by preparing the best tamales and filling up on orders to deliver to offices, family, friends, and friends of friends. Tamales are my favorite Christmas food because they are almost always handmade, prepared with love, and require an enormous amount of work.

Each one is different, with a personal touch that makes every recipe unique. Wrapped in bijao or plantain leaves, tamales are made from boiled corn dough, later ground and filled with a protein and a traditional criollo stew. They are then boiled until the dough firms up a bit more and are ready to eat.

LECHONA, TURKEY, HAM, AND PORK ROAST

On the typical Panamanian Christmas menu, you will always find at least one of these four options as the main dish. It is also common to see combinations of two or even three of them, always roasted.

Lechona, more common in the interior of the country, is by far my favorite. Outside of the Christmas season, we hardly consume turkey or ham at all. Perhaps that is why, in the weeks following the New Year, we are still making turkey sandwiches, turkey with rice, turkey soup—and the same goes for ham.

ARROZ CON GUANDÚ

This dish is non-negotiable on the Christmas table. No matter what is served, arroz con guandú (pigeon peas) is there to accompany it.

Although it can be found year-round in some places and in family homes, it truly reaches its peak in December, as it coincides with the harvest season and can be found fresh in the market. The rest of the year, it is usually available only canned.

ROSCA DE HUEVO

Although there are several brands and types of rosca, the egg bread rosca from Riba Smith is undoubtedly (at least in Panama City) the most popular and sought-after every December. So popular, in fact, that long lines form just to buy them.

There is nothing better for breakfast on Christmas morning than a generous turkey (or pork roast) sandwich on rosca de huevo.

RON PONCHE

“Ponche Crema,” as Ron Ponche (Egg Nog) is sometimes called, is truly a niche industry that explodes between December and January. You can find some version of it in restaurants, supermarkets, shops, liquor stores, and the most special of all—homemade versions made with family recipes that usually arrive as gifts.

OTHER CHRISTMAS DELICACIES

Another essential complement to Christmas dinner is a good potato salad. My grandmother used to make hers with chicken and celery, though there are also versions without any protein, as well as the classic “fair-style” salad made with potatoes and beets.

Saril (Hibiscus/Sorrel)

Chicha de saril also comes into its own during December, as its harvest season begins and fresh flowers become available. In Panama, it is mainly used to make a water-based beverage with plenty of ginger added. This Afro-Caribbean legacy is ideal for refreshing a sunny summer afternoon.

Fruit cake is another staple you can find in almost every home during the holidays. Although I must admit, I am one of those who prefers my sweet ending to come in the form of a good Ron Ponche.

I am sure I have left out many flavors and Christmas culinary curiosities from Panama, but this is certainly a snapshot of what you can enjoy if you find yourself in this corner of the world during the holiday season.